KitchenAid Stand Mixer F51 Fix (What That Code Really Is)

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What This Error Means

F51 on a Whirlpool-built KitchenAid washer means a Motor Rotor Position Sensor (RPS) fault – the board can’t tell how the motor is spinning.

So the machine thinks the motor is stalled or out of control and kills the cycle to protect the drive.

Reality check: countertop KitchenAid stand mixers don’t show F-codes; if you see F51 on a display, you’re on a washer, not the mixer.

Official Fix

Here’s the factory-approved playbook before they tell you to call for service:

  • Unplug the washer for at least 1 minute. Plug it back in and run a Rinse/Spin with the drum empty.
  • Open the lid and spin the inner basket by hand. It should turn smooth and coast a bit; no grinding, scraping, or sticking.
  • Grab a flashlight and look down between the basket and outer tub. Pull out socks, strings, or coins with long pliers or a bent wire.
  • Make sure the washer is level and not walking around. Rock it corner to corner and fix any wobble.
  • Run a short cycle with no clothes. If F51 never shows empty but comes back with big loads or heavy blankets, you’re overloading or tangling the load.
  • If F51 still shows even with an empty tub and a free-spinning basket, the official answer is: stop there and book a tech for motor/RPS testing.

The Technician’s Trick

What a real field tech does when F51 keeps coming back:

  • Unplug the washer. Slide it out so you can get behind or under it. Don’t work live on this thing.
  • Tilt it back carefully and brace it, or pull the rear panel, depending on model, so you can see the motor area.
  • Find the motor and the small sensor/actuator unit attached to it. That’s the RPS/shift actuator that F51 is screaming about.
  • Unplug every connector on the motor and sensor. Check for corrosion, burn marks, or loose pins. Reseat each plug until it clicks in solid.
  • Trace the wiring harness from the motor up toward the control board. Look for rubbed-through insulation, pinched spots, or broken wires. Repair or replace if anything looks sketchy.
  • Spin the basket by hand again while watching from underneath. If the drive hub splines are chewed up or the basket jumps and slips, plan on a new drive hub kit – drag here will trick the board into F51.
  • If the tub spins free and wiring looks good, replace the RPS/shift actuator first. It’s usually the cheapest part and fixes most F51 calls.
  • Only after a new sensor and a known-free basket still give F51 do we blame the drive motor or main control board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Machine under ~10 years old, cabinet is solid, no leaks, and F51 clears with a sensor/actuator or hub kit (typically well under $150 in parts if you DIY).
  • ⚠️ Debatable: 10–14 years old, a bit rusty or noisy, and you’re looking at both a sensor and a control board – fix only if you need a couple more years and parts are cheap.
  • ❌ Replace: Heavy rust, tub or bearing roar, or it needs motor + control board to stop F51 – that money makes more sense on a new washer.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Working through other appliance error codes? These guides cut the trial-and-error: