LG OLED TV Error F24 – Fast Fix Guide

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What This Error Means

F24 on an LG OLED TV usually means the main board is losing communication with the display panel electronics.
The TV starts to boot, detects a bad or missing signal to the screen hardware, then locks up, shuts down, or throws the F24 code to protect itself.

Official Fix

What the manual-style answer looks like:

  • Power reset the TV. Unplug it from the wall. Hold the power button on the TV (not just the remote) for 10–15 seconds. Leave it unplugged for at least 5 minutes. Plug it directly into a wall outlet, no surge strip, and try again.
  • Strip it to the basics. Disconnect every HDMI, USB, antenna, soundbar, and external box. Turn it on with nothing connected except power. If F24 only shows with a certain device attached, that device or its cable may be spiking the board.
  • Check the power source. Try a different wall outlet you know is good. Avoid cheap power strips. F24 can show up when the main board sees unstable voltage from the PSU.
  • Run a self test (if it stays on long enough). On the remote, go to: Settings > Support / OLED Care > Device Self-Care / Self Diagnosis > Picture Test. If the TV fails or crashes during that, it backs up the idea of an internal board or panel communication fault.
  • Update the firmware. If you can reach the menus, go: Settings > Support > Software Update and install any available update. Old firmware plus a glitch can throw odd error codes, including F24.
  • Factory reset (last software step). If it will stay powered on: Settings > All Settings > General > Reset to Initial Settings. This wipes apps and settings but can clear out corrupted config that triggers F24.

If F24 still comes back after all of that, the official line is: stop there and book LG service or an authorized shop. They’ll test, then typically replace the main board, power board, or (worst case) the OLED panel assembly.

The Technician’s Trick

This is the stuff the manual doesn’t tell you. Only do this if the TV is out of warranty and you’re comfortable around electronics. If not, skip it.

  • Kill the power for real. Unplug the TV. Wait at least 10–15 minutes so the power board caps can bleed off. You don’t want live voltage on that PSU.
  • Lay it down right. Put the TV face down on a flat table with a blanket or thick towel under the screen. These OLED panels are thin and fragile. No pressure in the center of the panel.
  • Pull the back cover. Remove the stand. Take out all the perimeter screws and the center screws holding the back cover. Keep track of lengths; don’t mix them up. Gently lift the back panel off.
  • Find the main board and panel cable. The main board is the one with the HDMI ports. A wide, flat ribbon (or a set of them) runs from it toward the panel/T‑Con area. That’s your panel communication path where F24 often comes from.
  • Reseat the panel ribbon. On the ribbon connector, flip up the locking tab or squeeze the latch (depends on style), slide the ribbon out, then slide it back in straight and fully seated. Lock it down again. Do the same for any similar ribbons between the power board and main board.
  • Look for burn marks or bulged caps. Dark spots, cracked components, or puffy capacitors on the main or power board usually mean that board is your culprit. In the field, we don’t “fix” those on consumer sets; we swap the whole board.
  • Test before closing fully. With the back cover loosely in place (no metal touching boards), plug the TV in and power it on. If F24 is gone and the picture holds, power back down, unplug, then reassemble it properly.
  • Board swap game plan. If reseating doesn’t help and you see no obvious damage, many techs go straight to a main-board replacement. Match the part number on the white sticker (e.g., EAXxxxxxxx / EBTxxxxxxx). Buy a used/refurb board with that exact number, swap it in, and re-test.

If a known-good main board still gives you F24, odds are the fault is in the OLED panel or its bonded drivers. That’s shop-level or replacement territory, not a DIY win.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: TV is under ~5 years old, no burn‑in, and a main or power board swap is quoted under about 30–40% of the cost of a new OLED.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Set is 5–7 years old, heavy hours, and repair quotes land in the $300–$500 range with no clear guarantee it’s not a panel fault.
  • ❌ Replace: Shop says the OLED panel or bonded drivers are bad, or the total repair cost is over ~60% of a comparable new LG OLED TV.

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