LG OLED TV F29 Error Code Fix Guide

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What This Error Means

F29 on an LG OLED TV is an internal hardware fault code. In plain English: the TV failed its power-up self-check between the power board, main board, and panel.

What you see: the TV may click on, maybe flash the logo or backlight for a second, then shut off or lock at a black screen with F29 showing. The TV is protecting itself because something inside is pulling bad voltage or not responding.

Official Fix

LG doesn’t want you inside the TV. Officially, the playbook is very basic:
  • Step 1: Hard power reset.
    – Turn the TV off.
    – Unplug it from the wall for at least 60 seconds.
    – While unplugged, press and hold the power button on the TV (not the remote) for 15–30 seconds to dump leftover charge.
    – Plug it straight into the wall (no power strip, no surge bar) and try again.
  • Step 2: Strip all accessories.
    – Unplug every HDMI, USB, soundbar, game console, antenna. Everything.
    – Try turning the TV on with only power connected.
    – If F29 disappears, add devices back one by one. A shorted HDMI device can trip protection.
  • Step 3: Software reset (if it will stay on long enough).
    – Settings > All Settings > General > System (or Reset) > Reset to Initial Settings.
    – Let it reboot and test again.
  • Step 4: Call for service.
    – If F29 comes back after the power reset and clean boot, LG’s official next step is: schedule authorized service.
    – They treat it as a hardware failure: power board, main board, or panel.
If you’re under warranty, do not open the TV. Follow those steps and then push LG or the retailer for service.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s how a bench tech actually approaches an F29 OLED that’s out of warranty.

  • Do a real power drain, not just a quick unplug.
    – Unplug the TV.
    – Hold the TV’s power button for a full 60 seconds.
    – Leave it unplugged 10–15 minutes.
    – Plug directly into a different wall outlet (no surge strip, no UPS).
    – Try powering on. This can clear a latched protection state after a brownout or surge.
  • Kill the fancy standby features (if you can reach the menus).
    – If it boots sometimes but then throws F29:
    – Go to Settings > All Settings > General > Devices / Power Saving.
    – Turn Quick Start+ OFF.
    – Turn SIMPLINK (HDMI-CEC) OFF.
    – These modes can leave the power board in a weird state after storms or flaky power.
  • Isolate a bad external device for real.
    – With everything unplugged, the TV passes its own self-test more easily.
    – If it only throws F29 when a certain HDMI or USB is connected, that device or its cable is dragging down the 5V rail.
    – Solution: replace that cable/device. Do not keep forcing it; you can cook the HDMI switch chip.
  • Out of warranty and handy with tools? Swap the board, not the TV.
    – Unplug TV. Let it sit 10+ minutes.
    – Remove the back cover (tons of screws, be patient, support the panel, it’s fragile).
    – Visual check: look at the power supply board for burn marks, cracked solder, or bulged capacitors.
    – On most F29 jobs, the fix is either:
    – Power supply board swap, or
    – Main board swap (if power looks clean but the set still faults).
    – Match part numbers printed on the board to the replacement. No guessing. One wrong board and the TV is a wall decoration.

If you’re not comfortable pulling a back cover off a wafer-thin OLED, stop at the power-drain and isolation steps and get a shop quote.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: TV is under 5 years old, good picture before this, and a confirmed repair quote is under about 30–40% of a similar new OLED.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Set is 5–7 years old, already has slight burn-in, and the tech wants both power and main board replaced.
  • ❌ Replace: Panel is cracked, has heavy burn-in, or repair estimate is close to the price of a mid-range new OLED or QLED.

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