Maytag Dishwasher F14 Error Code Fix Guide

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What This Error Means

F14 on a Maytag dishwasher usually means a control-board communication fault – the main electronic control isn’t talking right to the rest of the machine.

In plain terms: the brain of the dishwasher is glitching or seeing bad signals, so it stops the wash and throws the code.

Official Fix

What Maytag/Whirlpool expect you to do is mostly about the control board and its wiring:

  • Kill power first. Flip the dishwasher’s breaker off or unplug it. No guessing – power fully off before touching panels.
  • Do a basic reset. Leave power off for at least 1 minute, then turn it back on and try a normal cycle. If F14 comes right back, keep going.
  • Get to the control board. On most Maytag dishwashers it’s behind the lower kick panel or inside the door:
    • Open the door, remove the Torx/Phillips screws around the inner panel.
    • Carefully separate the inner door to expose the control module (small circuit board in a plastic housing).
  • Check harness connections. The manual says:
    • Verify every plug on the control board is fully seated.
    • Look for burnt spots, melted plastic, or green/white corrosion on pins.
    • Check the ribbon cable / harness going up to the user interface (buttons or touch panel) is tight and not kinked or cut.
  • Reassemble and test. Put the door back together, restore power, and run a test cycle. If F14 is gone, it was a loose connection.
  • If the code returns: The official recommendation is to replace the faulty electronic parts:
    • Main control board if it shows damage or fails continuity checks.
    • User interface / keypad assembly if certain buttons don’t respond or its ribbon is damaged.
  • Still no joy? At this point the book answer is: stop, don’t keep cycling power, and call for service to have the controls and wiring professionally tested.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s what real field techs try before dropping money on new boards.

  • Do a “deep” power reset.
    • Shut the breaker off for 10–15 minutes, not just 30 seconds.
    • While it’s off, open and close the dishwasher door a couple times to bleed off any stray charge.
  • Reseat every connector like you mean it.
    • With power still OFF, unplug each wiring connector from the control board one at a time, then plug it back in 2–3 times.
    • This “scrubs” oxidation off the pins and often clears intermittent F14 communication faults.
    • Do the same with the flat ribbon to the user interface – but be gentle, that ribbon tears easily.
  • Hunt for moisture above the control.
    • If you see any signs of a door leak or steam on/around the board housing, that can make the control freak out.
    • Dry the area thoroughly with a towel; if needed, use a hair dryer on LOW, held well back. Warm, not roasting.
    • Let it sit open 20–30 minutes to be sure it’s bone dry before powering back up.
  • Run the hidden diagnostic cycle (many models).
    • With the door closed and the machine in standby, press this key sequence within 5 seconds:
      Heated Dry → Normal → Heated Dry → Normal.
    • If it’s the right combo for your model, all lights will flash and a self-test will start. Let it run to the end; it can clear stuck error states.
    • If nothing happens, your model uses a different sequence – just skip this trick.
  • When to finally blame the board. If F14 comes back instantly after all this and there’s no visible wiring damage, the main control board is usually the culprit, with the UI panel a close second.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Dishwasher under ~8–10 years old, cabinet and racks in good shape, no other major issues, and a replacement control board for your exact model runs less than about 1/3 the cost of a new machine.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Unit is 10–12 years old, you’ve already replaced pumps or heaters, or you’d need both the main control and UI panel to be sure – tally parts cost before committing.
  • ❌ Replace: Over 12–15 years old, control board is burnt or NLA (no longer available), or total parts + labor is more than ~50% of a decent new dishwasher.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

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