Maytag Dishwasher F17 Error Code Fix

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What This Error Means

F17 on a Maytag dishwasher means water fill / inlet fault.

The control board opened the fill valve, didn’t see enough water come in fast enough, and shut the cycle down.

Official Fix

  • Unplug the dishwasher or kill the breaker. No power while you mess with water lines.
  • Turn off the water shutoff feeding the dishwasher (usually under the sink).
  • Make sure that shutoff is actually fully open and not half-closed or seized when you turn it back on.
  • Check the stainless/braided hose from valve to dishwasher for kinks or sharp bends. Straighten or re-route it.
  • Slide the dishwasher out a bit if you need space to reach the connection.
  • At the dishwasher end, unscrew the inlet hose. Look inside the dishwasher’s inlet valve for a tiny screen filter. If it’s packed with grit, clean it with a toothbrush and water. Don’t stab it with metal.
  • Reattach the hose snugly, turn the water back on, and check carefully for leaks.
  • Restore power and run a short cycle. If F17 is gone and it fills normally, you’re done.
  • If F17 comes back, the official move is: replace the water inlet valve, then re-test the machine.
  • If a new valve doesn’t fix it, the manual says to check wiring to the valve and then the main control board.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s how a real tech separates a clogged line from a bad valve fast.

  • Bucket test the water supply. With the water shutoff off, remove the dishwasher hose from the shutoff. Aim the hose into a bucket. Crack the valve open briefly. You want a strong blast, not a sad dribble. Weak flow = house plumbing issue, not the dishwasher.
  • Free a sticky inlet valve. Remove the toe-kick, restore power, and start a fill cycle. Listen at the water valve. If it hums but no water comes in, tap the metal body of the valve with a screwdriver handle. If it suddenly fills, the valve is sticking inside. That’s your smoking gun: replace the valve.
  • Check the float before blaming the board. Open the door and find the plastic float in the front corner of the tub. If it’s stuck up with soap scum, the machine thinks it’s already full and can throw fill errors like F17. Work it up and down and clean around it. If it now moves freely and F17 disappears, you just saved a control-board bill.
  • Hard reset a latched code. Kill power at the breaker for 10 minutes. Turn it back on, then hold Start/Cancel for about 5–10 seconds to clear any latched fault. If F17 doesn’t come back on a new cycle, it may have been a one-time low-pressure event.
  • Powered test safety. Only do live fill tests if you’re comfortable around 120 V and keep hands clear of wiring and moving parts. If not, stop after the hose/float checks and call a pro.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Under ~10 years old, stainless tub, no leaks, and F17 is the only issue. Inlet valve + maybe a hose is usually $30–$90 in parts and under an hour of labor.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Around 10–12 years old, racks rusting or spray arms worn, and you’re looking at a valve plus possible control board. If the quote climbs over ~$250, start pricing new dishwashers.
  • ❌ Replace: 12–15+ years old, plastic tub, multiple problems (leaks, loud pump, other error codes). If parts and labor are more than half the price of a good new unit, don’t sink money into it.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

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