Maytag Dishwasher F6 Error Code Fix Guide

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What This Error Means

F6 on a Maytag dishwasher basically means: “Water fill fault.”

The control doesn’t see enough water coming in during the fill, or a safety float is telling it to stop filling.

  • Dishwasher starts, hums, maybe pumps, but you don’t hear much water spraying.
  • Cycle stops early or just sits there with F6 on the display or flashing lights.
  • Dishes come out dirty or still soapy because it never filled right.

So: the machine is asking for water and something (tap, hose, valve, float, or a leak sensor) is blocking that plan.

Official Fix

Here’s the straight “by-the-book” sequence that matches what the manual wants you to do:

  • 1. Kill power, then bring it back.
    Turn the dishwasher off. Flip the breaker off for 1 minute, then back on. On many Maytag models, you can also press and hold Cancel/Drain (or similar) for 3–5 seconds to clear the code, then try a new cycle. If F6 pops right back, continue.
  • 2. Make sure the water is actually ON.
    Under the sink, find the little shutoff valve feeding the dishwasher. Turn it fully counterclockwise to open it. A half-closed valve can trigger F6.
  • 3. Check the supply hose for kinks.
    Look under the sink where the silver/braided or plastic line runs to the dishwasher. If it’s crushed behind a trash can, twisted, or sharply bent, straighten it out so water can flow.
  • 4. Clean the inlet screen at the shutoff.
    Close the shutoff valve. Unscrew the dishwasher hose from the valve. There’s often a tiny screen right in the valve or hose end. If it’s packed with grit, clean it out, reconnect the hose snugly (don’t overtighten), then reopen the valve slowly and check for leaks.
  • 5. Check the float inside the tub.
    Open the door and look for a little plastic dome or tower near the front corner of the tub (the float). Lift it up and let it drop. It should move freely and click. If it’s stuck in the UP position or jammed with food, plastic, or a utensil, clean around it so it can drop down. A stuck float tells the machine “I’m overflowing” and blocks filling.
  • 6. Run a quick test cycle.
    Close the door fully until it latches. Start a quick or rinse cycle and listen. You should clearly hear water flowing in within the first 30–60 seconds. If you still get F6 after doing all this twice, the manual’s next step is: call for service for a bad inlet valve, float switch, wiring, or control board.

If you’re not comfortable turning off water or removing hoses, stop at step 3 and get a pro. Water leaks under a dishwasher get ugly fast.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s the stuff techs actually do in the field that the manual barely mentions.

  • 1. Check the leak tray/float in the base (common on newer Maytag/Whirlpool-built units).
    If the machine has leaked into the bottom pan, a float switch down there trips and can throw an F6-type code to block filling.
    • Unplug the dishwasher or kill the breaker.
    • Remove the lower toe-kick panel (a few screws at the very bottom front).
    • Shine a light in the base. If you see standing water in the pan, the leak float is probably up and the control won’t let it fill.
    • Quick reset trick: pull the unit out a bit and carefully tilt it forward about 30–45° over a towel to let the water in the base pan drain out. Dry up what you can with rags.
    • Stand it back up, leave the toe panel off, power it back on, and test a short cycle while watching for drips. If it now fills, you’ve got an active leak (hose, pump, or valve) you still need to track down.
  • 2. Deep-clean the inlet valve screen at the dishwasher end.
    Even if the screen at the shutoff looks fine, the one inside the dishwasher’s water inlet valve can be packed with sand or scale.
    • Shut off power and water to the dishwasher.
    • Pull the dishwasher out enough to reach the left or right underside where the water line connects to the inlet valve.
    • Disconnect the water line from the valve. Inside the valve inlet there’s usually a tiny mesh screen.
    • Pop that screen out gently with a small pick or screwdriver, clean the crud off, or replace it if torn.
    • Reinstall the screen, reconnect the line, turn water back on, check for leaks, then test a cycle.

    This is often the difference between “needs a new valve” and “runs fine another 5 years.”

If after these tricks the valve still isn’t getting voltage or still won’t open, pros usually jump straight to a new inlet valve or, if the valve tests good, a control board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Unit under ~8–10 years old, cabinet and racks in good shape, F6 goes away after hose/valve/float work or needs only a new inlet valve or float switch.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: 10–12+ years old, already had pump or control repairs, and the diagnosis points to a pricey main control board on top of labor.
  • ❌ Replace: Tub is rusting, multiple leaks, racks falling apart, or the sum of parts + labor for valve, float, and board hits more than ~50% of a solid mid-range new dishwasher.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

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