Maytag Dishwasher F8 Fix (Real-World Guide)

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What This Error Means

F8 on a Maytag dishwasher means an overfill / water-level fault.

The control board sees the flood or float switch activated, or the water level too high, so it shuts the machine down to avoid flooding your kitchen.

  • Usually triggered by a leak into the base pan, a clogged or slow drain, or a stuck float.
  • Sometimes caused by a seeping inlet valve letting water creep in even when the machine is off.
  • Until that safety float drops back down, the dishwasher refuses to run and keeps flashing F8.

Official Fix

Here’s the manual-approved path, without the sugar-coating.

  • Kill the power. Unplug the dishwasher or flip the breaker. Don’t work live.
  • Check the float in the tub.
    • Open the door. Look for a small round cap or tower in a front corner of the tub.
    • Lift it gently. It should move up and drop back down freely.
    • If it is jammed with food, plastic, or scale, clean around it and free it up.
  • Pull the toe-kick and inspect the base pan.
    • Remove the bottom front panel with a screwdriver.
    • Use a flashlight and look in the metal or plastic pan under the tub.
    • If you see standing water, that’s what is tripping F8.
    • Sponge or towel out every bit of water and let the area dry fully.
  • Find where the water came from.
    • With the toe-kick still off, restore power and start a short rinse cycle.
    • Watch underneath (keep hands clear of wiring and moving parts).
    • Look for drips at the inlet valve, drain hose, circulation pump, drain pump, or door gasket.
  • Check the drain path.
    • Make sure the drain hose is not kinked or crushed behind the dishwasher.
    • If it connects to a garbage disposal, confirm the knockout plug was removed and the inlet is not packed with gunk.
    • Inside the tub, pull out the lower filter and clean the filter and sump area so water can actually leave the tub.
  • Inspect the float / flood switch and wiring.
    • In the base pan, locate the small float and switch assembly.
    • Check that the float moves freely and is not crusted with soap or grease.
    • Verify the wire connectors are tight and not corroded or burnt.
    • With power off, unplug the switch and test it with a multimeter; it should change from open to closed as you move the float up and down.
    • If it does not change state, replace the float switch.
  • Rule out a seeping inlet valve.
    • Turn off the water supply under the sink.
    • Check the water inlet valve where the supply line connects to the dishwasher.
    • If the tub slowly fills back up with clean water hours after a cycle, the valve is leaking internally and needs replacement.
  • Reset and test.
    • Restore power.
    • On most Maytags, press and hold Start/Cancel (or just Cancel) for 3–5 seconds to clear the code.
    • Run a quick cycle and watch for leaks and for F8 returning.

The Technician’s Trick

This is what a real tech does when you just want it working fast and you are standing in a puddle of dirty dishes.

  • Do a tip-and-drain reset.
    • Cut power and shut off the water supply valve under the sink.
    • Pull the dishwasher straight out from the cabinet about a foot.
    • Lay thick towels in front of it.
    • Gently tilt the whole machine forward about 30–45 degrees.
    • Let the water trapped in the base pan pour out onto the towels.
    • When it stops dripping, set it upright again and slide it back in.
    • Restore power and run a short cycle. F8 is usually gone.
  • Why it works: that F8 is held by a tiny float sitting in the base pan. Dump the water, the float drops, the control thinks life is good again.
  • But: this only clears the lockout. If there is a real leak (door gasket, hose, pump, inlet valve), it will fill the pan again and F8 will be back. Use this to get dishes done now, then track the leak when you have time.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Dishwasher under about 8–10 years old with no tub damage, and the issue is just a float switch, gasket, drain issue, or inlet valve (roughly $20–$90 in parts, $150–$250 with labor).
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Unit 8–12 years old needing multiple components (pump plus valve plus seals) or showing early rust; get a repair quote and compare it to a solid mid-range replacement.
  • ❌ Replace: Cracked or badly rusted tub, repeated leaks frying electronics, or a repair estimate over ~50% of a good new dishwasher; do not throw big money at a worn-out box.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

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