Miele Dishwasher F24 Fix (Heating Fault Code Guide)

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What This Error Means

F24 on a Miele dishwasher means heating circuit fault.

The control board has decided the water isn’t heating properly or the heater circuit looks electrically wrong, so it aborts the wash and throws F24 to avoid cooking itself.

  • Dishes come out cold, greasy, or wet.
  • Machine may stall near the end of the cycle, then beep and show F24.
  • On some models, cycle ends very quickly with cold water.

Bottom line: the machine can fill and spray, but the heater / circulation pump / control board path is unhappy.

Official Fix

What Miele wants you to do is very simple: power reset and then call them.

Do the basic safe checks first:

  • Kill power: Turn the dishwasher off, unplug it, or shut off the breaker.
  • Wait 1–2 minutes so the control board fully discharges.
  • Power it back up and run the shortest program.
  • If F24 pops up again or the water clearly never gets hot, the manual says: contact Miele Service.

Miele does not expect the average user to go any deeper on F24. Their official playbook is:

  • Check the heater / circulation pump for correct resistance and no short to ground.
  • Check the temperature sensor (NTC) in the sump for a sane resistance value.
  • Inspect the control board for a failed heater relay or burnt tracks.
  • Replace the bad part: usually the circulation pump with integrated heater or the control module.

So the official fix is basically: if a quick reset doesn’t clear it, you’re into parts replacement territory, and Miele wants one of their techs to do it.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s what a lot of field techs actually see on F24: the heater itself is fine, but the relay solder joints on the control board are cracked from heat and vibration.

If you’re handy with tools and respect mains voltage, this is the usual inside-job:

  • Safety first:
    • Unplug the dishwasher or shut off the breaker. Not optional.
    • Turn off the water if you’re pulling the machine out.
  • Get to the control board (most Miele dishwashers):
    • Open the door and remove the Torx screws around the inner edge holding the outer door panel.
    • Lift off the outer panel; the control box is usually at the top inside the door.
    • Pop open the plastic control housing and slide the PCB out just far enough to inspect the back.
  • Find the heater relay:
    • Look for a larger black or orange relay on the board, often near heavy tracks going to the heater/circulation pump.
    • Flip the board and inspect the solder side around that relay’s pins.
    • If you see cracked rings, dull or burnt-looking solder, that’s your likely F24 cause.
  • Reflow the joints (only if you know how to solder):
    • Use a decent soldering iron, not a toy USB pen.
    • Reflow all the relay pins with fresh solder, and any nearby joints that look stressed.
    • Don’t bridge pins. Don’t overcook the pads.
  • Check the heater connection down below (if you pull the machine out):
    • Access the bottom/side panels and find the circulation pump with the integrated heater.
    • Inspect the plug and wiring for scorched connectors or loose pins. Clean or replace as needed.
  • Reassemble and test:
    • Put the PCB back in its housing, refit the door panel, restore power.
    • Run a hot/intensive program and check after 10–15 minutes: the door should feel warm and no F24 should appear.

If the solder looks perfect and the heater circuit tests open, the trick won’t save you — you’re likely into a new circulation pump with heater or a new control board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Miele under ~12–15 years old, cabinet and racks in good shape, and you can get it repaired (or DIY the relay) for around $200–$500 total. Still way cheaper than a similar new Miele.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Machine around 15–18 years old, already had big parts replaced, and quotes are in the $400–$700 range. If you love the machine and it’s otherwise mint, maybe; if not, think hard.
  • ❌ Replace: Older than ~18 years, tub or racks are rusting, or it needs both a control board and circulation pump and you’re staring at $800+ in parts/labor. Put that money into a new unit.

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