Ninja Air Fryer F13 Error Code Fix Guide

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What This Error Means

On most Ninja air fryers, F13 means a fault in the temperature sensing or safety thermostat circuit (sensor / control board error).

In plain terms: the fryer thinks the heat control is unsafe or nonsense, so it shuts the heater down and throws F13.

Official Fix

  • Kill the power first. Unplug the Ninja air fryer from the wall. Leave it unplugged at least 10–15 minutes so everything cools and the control board fully discharges.
  • Let it cool completely. If the unit was very hot, give it extra time. F13 can pop when internal temps spike or the safety thermostat trips.
  • Check basket and crisper plate. Make sure the basket is fully seated and the crisper plate is in correctly. Some models will fault if things aren’t lined up and airflow is choked.
  • Clear all vents. Look at the rear and underside vents. Remove dust, grease, and anything blocking airflow. Use a dry cloth or soft brush. Don’t spray cleaner directly into vents.
  • Use a proper outlet. Plug the fryer directly into a wall socket. No extension cords, no power strips. Weak or unstable power can trip faults on sensitive boards.
  • Test with an empty preheat. Plug back in, set a low–medium temp (around 350°F / 175°C), and run it empty for a few minutes. If it runs without F13, it was likely an overheat or one-off glitch.
  • If F13 comes back repeatedly: The official line from Ninja is to stop using it and contact Ninja customer support for repair/replacement options. They do not expect you to open the unit or replace internals yourself.

The Technician’s Trick

  • First rule: unplug it. No power, no exceptions. If you’re not comfortable with basic tools and small screws, stop at the official fix.
  • Do a real hard reset.
    • Unplug the fryer.
    • Press and hold the main power/start button (if present) for 20–30 seconds to bleed off the control board.
    • Leave it unplugged another 5 minutes, then plug back in and test. This sometimes clears a stuck F13 on glitchy boards.
  • Clean the temperature sensor inside. Many Ninja units have a small metal sensor bump or probe near the top/rear of the cooking cavity.
    • Make sure the unit is stone cold and unplugged.
    • Look inside for a small metal nub or probe behind a grill near the fan area.
    • Wipe gently with a soft cloth slightly dampened with warm water and a little dish soap. Your goal: remove baked-on grease, not scrub the metal raw.
    • Dry it thoroughly. A sensor caked in grease reads wrong and can trigger F13.
  • Blow out the rear fan area.
    • From the outside, aim compressed air or a hand pump into the rear and bottom vents.
    • Knock loose dust, crumbs, and grease mist that can cook onto the sensor and board.
    • Don’t shove anything inside the vents; you’re just clearing airflow.
  • Out-of-warranty and handy? Reseat the sensor connectors. This is what a bench tech actually does.
    • Unplug the unit and flip it upside down on a towel.
    • Remove the bottom screws and carefully lift the base cover (watch for sharp metal).
    • Find the small two-wire plug(s) coming from the cooking cavity area into the main control board – that’s usually the temp sensor/thermostat harness.
    • Unplug and plug those connectors back in a few times to scrape oxidation off the pins. Look for any half-melted or brown/crispy connectors – those parts are suspect.
    • If the board is obviously burnt or a sensor wire is broken, that’s usually game over unless you replace the part.
  • Reassemble and test.
    • Put the base back on, tighten screws, stand the unit upright.
    • Plug in, run a low-temp test. If F13 is gone, it was likely a flaky connector or dirty sensor.
    • If F13 still hits instantly, you’re looking at a bad sensor, bad thermostat, or a dying control board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: F13 just started, unit is under warranty or less than ~3–4 years old, no burning smell, and you’re only talking about a sensor or simple warranty swap.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Middle-aged unit, heavy daily use, and you’d need a control board or multiple parts that cost more than about 40–50% of a new Ninja.
  • ❌ Replace: Cracked or heat-damaged shell, burnt or blown control board, melted connectors everywhere, or parts plus labor would push close to new-unit pricing.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

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