What This Error Means

On most GE ovens, F37 means the oven temperature sensor (RTD) circuit looks bad to the control board.

The board is seeing a dead, shorted, or flaky sensor signal, so it shuts down heat and flashes F37.

Official Fix

GE’s official playbook is simple: check the oven temperature sensor and its wiring, then replace whatever is bad.

  • Kill power at the breaker. Don’t just turn the oven off.
  • Let the oven cool fully if it was heating.
  • Open the oven, pull out the racks, and find the thin metal rod on the back wall – that’s the temp sensor.
  • Remove the two screws holding the sensor and gently pull it forward until you see the connector.
  • Unplug the sensor and test it with a multimeter: at room temp it should be ~1080 Ω (anything around 1000–1200 Ω is normal).
  • If the sensor reads “OL” (open), zero, or something way off, replace the sensor.
  • If the sensor ohms good, inspect the wiring harness from the sensor back to the control board for damage, burns, or loose connections.
  • If sensor and wiring both check out, GE says replace the electronic control board (ERC), then retest.

After any part swap, restore power and see if F37 is gone. If it comes right back, you missed the fault.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s how a real tech nails this without throwing parts at it.

  • Check it at the board first. Pull the range out just enough to get to the back panel. Kill power, pull the rear cover, and find the two small wires from the oven sensor going to the control board. Meter the sensor from that connector. If it’s good there, the harness and sensor are fine and the board is the suspect.
  • Use a test resistor. If you’re not sure about the sensor, unplug it from the board and connect a 1 kΩ–1.1 kΩ resistor across the sensor pins. Restore power. If the oven powers up clean with no F37, the board is happy and the real sensor/harness is the problem. If F37 still pops, the board is bad.
  • Reseat every connector. F37 can be a loose plug, especially after a self‑clean cycle. With power off, unplug and firmly replug the sensor connector at the board and at the sensor (if accessible). Any browned or melted plastic = replace that part or pigtail, not just the sensor.
  • Heat‑gun test for intermittent faults. If F37 only shows up when hot, a tech sometimes warms the sensor gently with a hair dryer while watching resistance. If the reading jumps all over the place as it warms, that sensor is toast even if it looks “ok” at room temp.

Bottom line: confirm it with a meter or resistor before you buy a pricey control board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Oven under 10–12 years old, cabinet in good shape, and it only needs a sensor or a harness – cheap, fast repair.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Older than 12–15 years or you’re already on your second control board – price out the board vs. a basic new range before deciding.
  • ❌ Replace: Severe heat damage around wiring, multiple error codes, or board plus sensor plus labor adds up to more than half the cost of a new unit.

Parts You Might Need

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See also

Chasing error codes on other gear too? These guides can save you time: