What This Error Means
F72 on a Ring Video Doorbell basically means: the doorbell is failing its internal startup/self-test, usually due to bad power or an internal board fault.
In plain terms: the doorbell isn’t booting cleanly, so it won’t stay online, won’t record reliably, and may just sit there with a stuck light or constant errors in the app.
Official Fix
Here’s the kind of script Ring support/manual will walk you through. Do it in this order, don’t skip power checks.
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1. Confirm how your Ring is powered.
Battery model: has a removable battery pack.
Wired model (Pro / Wired): hardwired to a transformer. -
2. If it’s battery-powered, rule out a dead pack.
- Pop the battery out.
- Charge it over USB until the light shows full (usually solid green).
- Snap it back in firmly until it clicks and the front light comes on.
- Open the Ring app and check if the error clears after a couple of minutes.
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3. If it’s hardwired, check transformer voltage.
- You want 16–24 VAC on the doorbell circuit. Under ~15 VAC and these things get flaky.
- Best way: use a multimeter on AC volts across the two transformer screws or at the doorbell screws.
- No meter? Check the transformer label. If it says 10V or very low VA (power), it’s under-spec’d for modern video doorbells.
- If the chime buzzes, clicks weird, or the Ring keeps rebooting, that’s classic low-voltage behavior.
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4. Do a clean power cycle.
- Battery model: pull the battery out, wait 30 seconds, reinstall.
- Wired model: shut power off at the breaker feeding the transformer or chime, wait 30 seconds, turn it back on.
- Watch the Ring light: let it boot fully (can take a minute or two).
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5. Hard reset the Ring unit.
- Press and hold the setup button (usually on the side or back) for 15–20 seconds.
- Release, then wait until the light pattern changes and it restarts.
- Open the Ring app, remove the old device entry if needed, then add it again like a new doorbell.
- Walk through the full setup: Wi‑Fi, location, chime options, etc.
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6. Clean up the wiring if it’s hardwired.
- Kill power at the breaker before touching wires.
- Pull the doorbell off the wall.
- Make sure both low‑voltage wires are tight under the screws, copper clean, no corrosion or paint.
- Strip back to fresh copper and reconnect if the ends are dark or crusty.
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7. Try it again and watch behavior, not just the code.
- If it boots, stays online, and the app live view works, you’re good.
- If F72 keeps showing or the unit never gets through startup, the manual answer is: contact Ring Support for replacement options.
If you’ve done power, wiring, reboot, and hard reset, and F72 still comes back, Ring’s official path is usually warranty/RMA, not board-level repair.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Doorbell is under warranty or under ~3–4 years old, and all it needs is a proper 16–24 VAC transformer or a fresh battery.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Device is 4–6 years old, transformer upgrade requires an electrician, and you were already thinking about upgrading to a newer Ring model.
- ❌ Replace: F72 survives full reset and good power, unit shows signs of water damage or physical abuse, and it’s out of warranty — a new Ring is cheaper than paying anyone to open and diagnose the board.
Parts You Might Need
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16–24 VAC Doorbell Transformer (30–40 VA for video doorbells)
Find 16–24 VAC Doorbell Transformer on Amazon -
Plug‑in Power Supply for Ring Video Doorbell (for outlets near the door)
Find Plug‑in Power Supply on Amazon -
18/2 Low‑Voltage Doorbell Wire (for runs from transformer to doorbell/chime)
Find Low‑Voltage Doorbell Wire on Amazon -
Small Wire Connectors / Wire Nuts (for clean, solid splices at the transformer or chime box)
Find Wire Connectors on Amazon -
Basic Multimeter (to actually see if your transformer is giving 16–24 VAC)
Find Multimeter on Amazon -
Replacement Ring Video Doorbell (if the unit fails even on good power and a hard reset)
Find Replacement Ring Video Doorbell on Amazon
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