What This Error Means
F79 on a Ring Video Doorbell = internal startup fault, usually power or firmware failing during boot.
What’s really happening: the doorbell is trying to start, crashes or reboots, never fully comes online, and the app throws F79 instead of connecting.
What’s really happening: the doorbell is trying to start, crashes or reboots, never fully comes online, and the app throws F79 instead of connecting.
Official Fix
This is the Ring-style checklist. Run through it in order.
- 1. Confirm your internet isn’t the problem
– On the same Wi‑Fi your Ring uses, open a browser on your phone and load a couple of sites.
– If that’s slow or dead, reboot the router/modem first. F79 can appear just because the doorbell can’t reach Ring’s servers. - 2. Check the doorbell’s power source
– Wired models (incl. Pro/Pro 2): You need a doorbell transformer rated around 16–24 VAC, 30 VA minimum.
– If your mechanical chime is very old or low‑rated, it can drag the voltage down and trigger internal errors like F79.
– Battery models: Plug into USB and charge until the LED shows full. Low battery + cold weather = unstable boot and F‑codes. - 3. Do a standard reset
– Press and hold the setup button on the Ring for about 20 seconds (check your exact model, but 20s is the usual mark).
– Release, wait 1–2 minutes for it to reboot fully.
– Watch the light pattern; once it goes into setup/ready mode, try the app again. - 4. Remove and re-add the device in the Ring app
– Open the Ring app > go to the problem doorbell > Device Settings > Remove Device.
– Force-close the app, reopen, and choose Set Up a Device > Doorbell.
– Scan the QR code on the doorbell and walk through the whole setup flow again. - 5. Fix bad Wi‑Fi signal
– In the Ring app, check the RSSI number for the doorbell. You want it roughly better than -60 dBm.
– Move the Wi‑Fi router closer, remove one wall if possible, or connect the doorbell to the 2.4 GHz band (not 5 GHz) if your model supports both.
– Reboot router again after any changes, then retry live view and see if F79 is gone. - 6. Update your Ring app and phone OS
– Go to the App Store/Google Play, update the Ring app.
– Restart your phone. Old app versions sometimes mis-handle newer firmware and spit out cryptic codes. - 7. Contact Ring Support if F79 persists
– If power is in spec, Wi‑Fi is solid, and a reset/re‑add didn’t clear it, Ring usually treats this as a hardware/firmware failure.
– If you’re in warranty, they’ll typically walk you through a final reset and may offer a replacement if it still shows F79.
The Technician’s Trick
- 1. Meter the transformer for real
– Kill power at the breaker.
– Pull the doorbell off the wall, disconnect the two low‑voltage wires.
– Turn breaker back on. Put a multimeter on AC volts across those two wires.
– You want around 16–24 VAC under load. If you’re seeing 10–14 VAC or it swings a lot when the doorbell tries to boot, that low voltage can absolutely trigger F79.
– If it’s low: replace the transformer with a higher‑rated one (16–24 VAC, 30 VA). - 2. Bypass the old chime temporarily
– Old mechanical chimes can choke the circuit.
– At the chime box, connect the TRANS and FRONT terminals together (or follow the instructions for a Ring Pro Power Kit/bypass).
– Now power just the Ring directly from the transformer, no chime coil in the way.
– If F79 disappears with the chime bypassed, you either keep it bypassed (use a Ring Chime) or upgrade the chime/transformer combo. - 3. Bench-test the doorbell indoors
– Disconnect it completely from the house wiring.
– Use a plug‑in 16–24 VAC doorbell power adapter and power the Ring on a table inside.
– Set it up fresh on Wi‑Fi right next to the router.
– If it runs fine on the bench: your house wiring/transformer/chime is the problem, not the doorbell.
– If it still throws F79 on clean bench power: the internal board/firmware is shot. - 4. Do a true factory reset while on stable power
– With the unit powered on a good supply (charged battery or solid transformer), hold the setup/reset button for 30–45 seconds until you see a major change in light pattern.
– Wait for it to fully reboot, then re-add to the app.
– Doing this on flaky power often fails; doing it on a solid bench supply is how techs rule out power vs. firmware. - 5. Call it dead when it fails bench test
– If you’ve proven good power with a meter, bypassed the chime, bench-tested it, and F79 still sticks around, the main board is bad.
– Ring doesn’t sell internal boards; it’s relay/warranty or full replacement time.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Doorbell is under warranty, or you only need a new transformer / minor wiring cleanup. Cheap parts, quick win.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Doorbell is 3–4+ years old and you’re about to buy both a new transformer and maybe a Ring Chime or Power Kit to keep it happy.
- ❌ Replace: F79 still shows on clean bench power, or there’s water damage/burn marks. Don’t sink time into it—buy a new doorbell.
Parts You Might Need
- 16–24 VAC 30VA Doorbell Transformer – Find 16–24 VAC 30VA Doorbell Transformer on Amazon
- Plug-in 24VAC Power Adapter for Ring – Find Plug-in 24VAC Power Adapter for Ring on Amazon
- Ring-Compatible Chime Bypass / Pro Power Kit – Find Ring-Compatible Chime Bypass / Pro Power Kit on Amazon
- Replacement Rechargeable Ring Battery Pack – Find Replacement Rechargeable Ring Battery Pack on Amazon
- New Ring Video Doorbell – Find New Ring Video Doorbell on Amazon
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