What This Error Means
F20 on a Roku Streaming Stick means the HDMI/HDCP handshake failed.
In plain English: your TV and the Roku can’t agree on a protected video signal, so you get a purple/black screen, flickering, or a “HDCP error” message instead of your show.
Official Fix
Roku’s official line for HDMI / HDCP errors is basically: reset the handshake and clean up the connection.
- Turn the TV off fully (power button or unplug).
- Unplug the Roku power cable.
- Pull the Roku out of the HDMI port and wait 30 seconds.
- Check the HDMI port and Stick contacts; blow out dust, no liquids.
- Use a wall adapter for Roku power, not the TV’s USB port.
- Plug the Stick into a different TV HDMI port, no receiver/soundbar in between.
- Turn the TV on, then plug Roku power back in and let it boot.
- On Roku, go to Settings > Display type and set 1080p TV (not Auto or 4K while testing).
- Restart Roku: Settings > System > Power > System restart (or just “System restart”).
If the picture is now stable and the error is gone, the F20 was just a bad HDMI/HDCP handshake or marginal power.
The Technician’s Trick
When the official routine doesn’t stick, here’s what techs actually do to beat F20 on stubborn setups:
- Bypass extras. If you use a receiver/soundbar, skip it: go Roku → TV HDMI 1 only. If that works, the extra box is the issue.
- Use the HDMI extender. If the Stick is crammed behind the TV, use the Roku HDMI extender so it hangs free and runs cooler.
- Tame the HDMI input. On the TV’s HDMI settings for that port, turn off “Enhanced/Deep Color/Ultra HD” and use “Standard/Compatibility”, then power-cycle TV and Roku.
- Run the secret reboot. On the remote press: Home 5x, Up, Rewind 2x, Fast Forward 2x, then use the menu there to restart.
- Drop to 720p. If 1080p still fails, set Display type to 720p and test; some older panels only behave at 720p.
Nine times out of ten, direct-to-TV plus a locked 1080p or 720p signal makes F20 disappear for good.
Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)
- ✅ Fix: Roku and TV both work fine otherwise; F20 only appears on this setup and goes away when you swap ports/cables.
- ⚠️ Debatable: Stick is a few years old and F20 keeps coming back even after clean cables, wall power, and direct-to-TV tests.
- ❌ Replace: F20 (or no picture) follows the Stick to every TV and cable you try, or the Roku is freezing and rebooting constantly.
Parts You Might Need
- High-speed HDMI cable (4K/HDCP 2.2 rated) – Find High-speed HDMI cable on Amazon
- Roku-compatible USB power adapter (5V, 1A or higher) – Find Roku USB power adapter on Amazon
- Roku HDMI extender cable – Find Roku HDMI extender cable on Amazon
- HDMI switch or splitter with HDCP 2.2 support – Find HDMI switch or splitter on Amazon
- Replacement Roku Streaming Stick – Find Roku Streaming Stick on Amazon
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
See also
Dealing with other gadgets throwing strange F-codes or device errors? These guides might help:
- LG OLED TV error codes (F21–F40)
- MacBook Pro F-series error codes guide
- Nest thermostat error codes
- See our guide on Ring error codes
- Garmin error codes guide