Samsung Refrigerator F5 Error Code Fix (Fan Fault)

by

What This Error Means

F5 on a Samsung refrigerator (often shown as 5F or SF on the display) is the code for a freezer evaporator fan fault on most models.

The control board thinks the fan that pushes cold air through the freezer and into the fridge is iced up, blocked, or electrically bad, so cooling drops off and the unit starts warming up.

Official Fix

The factory answer is simple: check airflow, reset it, then call for service if the code comes back.

  • Unplug the refrigerator or flip the breaker off for at least 5 minutes, then power it back up to reset the control board.
  • Set the freezer near 0°F (-18°C). Cranking it way colder just stacks more ice on the evaporator and chokes the fan.
  • Open the freezer and make sure food is not jammed tight against the back wall or covering any vents. Leave a couple of inches of space so air can move freely.
  • Check that the doors are closing fully, gaskets are clean and not torn, and nothing is blocking the door from sealing. Warm air leaks mean frost, and frost kills the fan.
  • If you see a thick sheet of frost or ice on the back inside wall of the freezer, unplug the unit, open the doors, and let it defrost completely. Plan on 12–24 hours with towels on the floor for the melt water.
  • After a full natural defrost, power it back on, let it run for at least an hour, and see if the F5/5F code clears on its own and normal cooling returns.
  • If the code returns or the freezer is still warm, the official line is: schedule service. At that point Samsung expects a tech to test and replace the freezer fan motor, wiring, or control board.

The Technician’s Trick

The manual says “reset and call.” Techs skip straight to the fan and the ice.

  • Kill power and open it up. Unplug the fridge. Pull out freezer drawers and shelves. Remove the screws holding the rear inside panel in the freezer and lift it off. Behind it is the evaporator coil and the fan the F5/5F code is complaining about.
  • Check the fan and ice build-up. If the fan blades are buried in ice or the whole coil is a solid white block, the fan cannot move air. That is usually a defrost problem or an air leak, not just a bad motor.
  • Do a fast, controlled defrost. Put towels down. Use a hair dryer on low or medium, 6–8 inches away, to melt ice off the fan, wiring, and drain area. Keep the hot air moving and your hand in the airstream; if it is too hot for your hand, it is too hot for the plastic. Do not use a heat gun and do not chip ice with tools.
  • Spin-test the fan. With power still unplugged, spin the fan blades by hand. It should spin freely and coast. If it feels gritty, stiff, or wobbly, assume the fan motor is shot and plan to replace it.
  • Clear the drain while you are there. At the bottom of the evaporator pan there is a drain hole. If it is iced shut, warm it up and flush it with hot (not boiling) water using a turkey baster or squeeze bottle. A plugged drain means water refreezes around the fan and brings the F5/5F error right back.
  • Reassemble and test. Once the ice is gone and things are dry, reinstall the back panel and shelves, then power the fridge on. When the compressor starts, listen for the freezer fan within a few minutes. A smooth, steady fan sound and no new F5/5F code is what you want.
  • Know when it is the board, not the fan. If the fan spins easily by hand and is properly plugged in but never moves or even twitches after a full defrost, the main control board may not be sending power. Pros meter voltage at the fan connector; in the field the usual order is: replace the fan motor first, then look at the control board if the new motor still does nothing.
  • Optional: forced-defrost mode. Many Samsung models have a hidden button combo on the front panel that starts an ‘Fd’ forced-defrost cycle. Techs use that instead of unplugging for a full day. The exact buttons vary by model, so you have to follow the tech sheet for your fridge, but if you have it, it is a quick way to clear ice around the fan.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Fridge is under about 8–10 years old, cooling was fine before this, and the problem looks like ice build-up or a single failed freezer fan motor or defrost part.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Unit is 8–12 years old, you are seeing repeat ice-ups, and it likely needs both a fan and extra work (control board, heater, or door gasket) to keep the error from coming back.
  • ❌ Replace: Fridge is over 12 years old, has other issues (weak cooling, noisy compressor, cabinet rust), and the repair quote is creeping toward half the price of a new unit.

Parts You Might Need

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.