Whirlpool Washing Machine F22 Fix (Door Lock Error)

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What This Error Means

On most Whirlpool front‑load washers, F22 means Door Lock Error.

The control board is trying to lock the door, doesn’t get the right feedback from the door‑lock switch, and shuts the cycle down for safety.

Result: the washer usually won’t start, or it stops and beeps with F22 while the door is either stuck locked or refuses to lock.

Official Fix

Here’s what Whirlpool’s playbook wants you to do, in order:

  • Kill the power:
    • Unplug the washer for at least 1 minute.
    • Plug it back in and try a new cycle. Sometimes it clears a one‑off glitch.
  • Check the door is really closed:
    • Look for clothes, socks, or the door gasket folded into the latch area.
    • Clean the gray rubber boot so nothing is riding between the door and frame.
  • Inspect the door strike (the plastic hook on the door):
    • Open the door and look at the plastic tab that goes into the lock.
    • If it’s cracked, bent, wobbly, or missing, it won’t hit the lock switch correctly.
    • If damaged, the official cure is: replace the door strike.
  • Check door alignment:
    • Close the door slowly and watch how the strike lines up with the hole in the front panel.
    • If you have to lift or push the door to make it close, the hinge is sagging or loose.
    • Tighten the hinge screws on the door side and the front‑panel side if you can reach them.
  • Inspect the door‑lock wiring (for people comfortable removing a cover):
    • Unplug the washer.
    • Remove the top panel (usually three screws on the back, slide the top back and lift off).
    • Find the wire harness going to the door‑lock assembly at the front corner.
    • Make sure the connector is fully seated and not burnt, broken, or green with corrosion.
  • Replace the door‑lock assembly:
    • If the strike and alignment look good but F22 keeps coming back, Whirlpool wants the whole lock swapped.
    • The lock is held by 2–3 screws from the front and one wiring plug.
    • Unplug, remove the front bellow clamp, pull the boot back, unscrew the lock, swap it, and reassemble.
  • If F22 survives a new lock:
    • Per the manual, the next suspect is the main control board (CCU) or the wiring between CCU and lock.
    • That’s officially “call for service” territory.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s what field techs actually do when F22 shows up but the lock isn’t obviously broken.

  • Free a sticky lock instead of replacing it immediately:
    • Unplug the washer.
    • Open the door and press the latch tongue in and out with your finger; it should move cleanly and spring back.
    • If it feels gummy, shoot a tiny bit of electrical contact cleaner on the moving parts (never WD‑40) and work it a few times.
    • Re‑try a cycle. A lot of “bad” locks are just dirty or sticky.
  • Hard‑reset a frozen control:
    • Unplug for 15–20 minutes, not just 60 seconds.
    • While plugging back in, press and hold START/PAUSE (or CANCEL on some models) for 10–15 seconds.
    • This can clear a latched F22 the quick reset doesn’t touch.
  • Reseat both ends of the lock wiring:
    • Unplug the washer and pull the top panel.
    • Unplug the door‑lock connector, inspect the pins, and plug it back in firmly.
    • Trace that harness back to the control board and reseat the matching connector on the board.
    • Vibration works those loose. Reseating often “magically” fixes intermittent F22 without buying parts.
  • Quick hinge tweak for doors that just barely catch:
    • With the door open, loosen the hinge screws just enough that the hinge can move.
    • Lift the door slightly so the strike sits higher and deeper in the lock opening, then tighten the screws.
    • If the door now closes with a clean “click” and F22 disappears, you dodged a new lock.
  • Door stuck locked?
    • Unplug the washer.
    • On many models you can remove the lower front access panel and reach up to a little plastic pull tab on the lock.
    • Pull that tab straight down to pop the door open, then fix the actual issue instead of forcing the door.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Machine under ~10 years old, runs fine otherwise, and you only need a door lock or door strike (usually a cheap, fast repair).
  • ⚠️ Debatable: F22 plus other errors, signs of control‑board issues, or the quote for lock + labor is creeping over 30–40% of a new basic washer.
  • ❌ Replace: Tub is noisy, rusty, or leaking and you now have F22 pointing at a bad control board or wiring harness on a 10–15+ year‑old unit.

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