Whirlpool Washing Machine F26 Fix (Error Code Guide)

What This Error Means

F26 means Door Switch or Door Lock Error on most Whirlpool front-load washing machines.

The control board is not seeing a clean signal that the door is locked or closed, so it shuts the cycle down and throws the code.

Official Fix

What Whirlpool wants you to do, step by step.

  • Kill power first
    • Unplug the washer or flip the breaker off.
    • Wait at least 1 minute so the control fully powers down.
  • Check the door is actually closing
    • Open and close the door firmly. Do not baby it.
    • Look at the plastic door strike on the door edge. If it is cracked, loose, or missing, the lock cannot grab it.
    • Grab the door at the handle and lift it. If it droops, the hinge may be letting the door sag so the strike does not line up with the lock.
  • Try a basic reset
    • Plug the washer back in.
    • Close the door hard once, then press Start.
    • If F26 comes right back, continue. The problem is not just a glitch.
  • Inspect the door lock assembly (what the manual tells the tech)
    • Unplug power again.
    • Remove the top panel (usually three screws across the back, then slide back and lift).
    • Look down the front left side inside the cabinet. You will see the door lock module where the door latches.
    • Check the wiring harness going to the lock. Look for broken wires, burn marks, or a loose plug.
    • Reseat the connector on the lock. Push it off and back on until it clicks.
  • Check wiring back to the control board
    • Follow the harness from the door lock up to the main control board at the rear.
    • Make sure that plug is fully seated on the control board and not burned.
    • If the harness is damaged, replace it. Do not tape over broken wires and call it good.
  • Parts the manual wants swapped in order
    • If the door and hinge line up, and the harness looks good, replace the door lock assembly.
    • If a new lock does not fix F26, Whirlpool procedure is to suspect the main control board next.

That is the official path: verify door closes, verify wiring, then replace the door lock. If that fails, replace the control board.

The Technician’s Trick

Here is how a field tech usually attacks F26 faster than the book.

  • Test for misalignment first
    • Leave the washer plugged in for this test.
    • Close the door, then physically push the door in and lift up on the handle while you press Start.
    • If it starts without F26 while you are pushing, the hinge is sagging or the strike is too shallow, not an electronic failure.
    • Loosen the hinge screws slightly, lift the door so it lines up with the lock, then tighten the screws back down.
  • Door strike tweak
    • Unplug the washer.
    • Look at the plastic or metal strike on the door.
    • If it is not broken but the fit is sloppy, techs sometimes shim it with a thin washer under the screws or give a tiny bend on metal styles to make it stick in deeper.
    • Small adjustment only. You just want a more positive grab into the lock.
  • Reseat both ends of the lock harness
    • Pop the top panel off.
    • At the door lock: pull the connector off and on three times. It scrapes corrosion off the pins.
    • Do the same at the control board end of that cable.
    • This silly move clears a ton of F26 codes caused by a weak connection instead of a truly bad part.
  • Only then swap the lock
    • If alignment is good and reseating does not help, replace the door lock assembly.
    • Most real world F26 calls end right there without needing a new control board.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Washer is under 10 years old, drum and bearings are quiet, no leak issues, and you only need a door lock or hinge adjustment.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Machine is older, already needed other repairs, or F26 comes with random power issues that point toward an expensive control board.
  • ❌ Replace: Tub is noisy, it shakes like crazy, has rust or leaks, and now needs both a control board and lock; do not sink more cash into it.

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