Whirlpool Washing Machine F29 Fix (Door Lock Error)

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What This Error Means

F29 on a Whirlpool washing machine means door lock / door unlock failure.

The control tries to lock or unlock the door and doesn’t see the right signal back, so it stops the cycle and throws F29, usually with the door stuck locked.

  • Machine may not start, or stops mid-cycle.
  • You hear clicking at the door but it never fully locks or unlocks.
  • Display shows F29, sometimes after a power flicker or a hard door slam.

The washer no longer trusts the door lock, so it refuses to run for safety.

Official Fix

What Whirlpool says to do, roughly in this order:

  • Kill the power. Unplug the washer (or flip the breaker) for at least 1 minute. That clears a confused control and lets the lock reset.
  • Check the door and strike.
    • Make sure nothing is pinched in the door gasket.
    • Look at the plastic door strike on the door edge – it must not be cracked, loose, or bent.
    • Close the door firmly once. Don’t keep slamming it; that just finishes off a weak latch.
  • Power back on and test. Turn it on and try a small cycle (Rinse/Spin or Quick Wash). If F29 doesn’t come back and the door locks solidly, you’re done.
  • If the code returns, inspect the door lock assembly.
    • Unplug the washer again.
    • Remove the front or top panel (depends on model) to reach the door lock module on the side of the door opening.
    • Check the wiring harness to the lock: fully seated plugs, no burnt pins, no broken wires near the hinge.
  • Replace the door lock / latch assembly if it’s damaged or intermittent.
    • Install an OEM-compatible Whirlpool door lock module.
    • Reconnect wiring exactly as it was and clip it so opening the door can’t tug on the wires.
  • If a new latch doesn’t fix it, test from the control board. The service manual says: check continuity from the main control to the latch. If wiring is good and the latch is new, replace the main control board.

That’s the official tree: reset, check door and strike, inspect wiring, replace latch, then control board as the last step.

The Technician’s Trick

Here’s how a working tech usually handles F29 without wasting half a day:

  • Step 1: Get the door open without breaking it.
    • Unplug the washer. No power while you mess with the lock.
    • On most Whirlpool front-loaders there’s an emergency release next to the door lock behind the lower front panel or toe kick.
    • Pop off that panel, find the small plastic pull tab/cable, and pull it straight down. The door should pop open. No prying on the handle.
  • Step 2: Clean and realign before you buy parts.
    • Wipe soap scum, lint, and coins out of the latch pocket on the front panel.
    • Check the rubber door boot: if it’s twisted or bulging, it can keep the door from fully seating. Reseat it by hand so the door closes flat.
    • Look dead-on at the door strike. If it’s not going straight into the latch, loosen its screws, nudge it into center, and retighten.
  • Step 3: Quick “is the latch junk?” test.
    • With the washer still unplugged, grab the door lock module and gently wiggle it.
    • If it rattles like something loose inside, or you can feel play where the strike goes in, that latch is usually toast. Don’t overthink it – replace it.
  • Step 4: Real-world cycle test.
    • Reassemble just enough to close the door.
    • Plug it back in and run a Drain/Spin or Quick Wash.
    • Listen: one solid click and no error is good. Multiple clicks, chattering, then F29 again = bad latch, even if it “looks fine.”
  • Step 5: Only blame the control board when you’ve run out of excuses.
    • If a new OEM latch still gives F29, and the harness from board to lock checks out (no breaks, no corrosion), then the main control is likely dropping power to the lock.
    • At that point, you decide if a control board price makes sense for the age of the machine.

Is It Worth Fixing? (The Financial Verdict)

  • ✅ Fix: Washer under ~8–10 years old, otherwise healthy, and it only needs a door lock or strike – cheap part, fast repair.
  • ⚠️ Debatable: Unit is 10–12 years old, F29 plus other minor issues, or it needs both latch and control board with paid labor.
  • ❌ Replace: Tub is noisy, leaking, or rusty and you have F29, or the quote for latch + control board is close to half the cost of a new washer.

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